Sailing Stories » Song Of The Ocean - Caribbean to Sweden
Song of the Ocean is a Najad 511 and our second venture into the world of Najad Varvet AB and their designer Judel Vrolijk.
In c2002 we took possession of a N460 Song of the Sea, and sailed her across to the Caribbean and back two years later via the English Channel. So impressed were we with the sea keeping qualities of this boat that we had no difficulty in c2005 on deciding on the boat’s big sister, the N511 which had been awarded European Yacht of the Year. Later that Autumn we sailed her to Lanzarote and then onwards to the Cape Verde Islands, Barbados and into the Caribbean.
After seven happy seasons in the Caribbean though including three transatlantic crossings, we decided to square the circle in c2009 and return once more to Sweden to refit and regroup. The boat was re-launched in January by Peakes in Chaguaramas, Trinidad and after a few days ‘spit and polishing’ we set sail at the crack of dawn through the Bocas for Grenada.
Trinidad lift
The wind was unusually light necessitating a good few hours motor sailing to cover the eighty miles to St David’s Bay in daylight. On arrival, we were horrified to find our batteries boiling as a result of a failed regulator. This required not only sourcing a new regulator but also new batteries. No small undertaking in Grenada. Mike the in-house engineer at Le Phare Bleu was able to come to the rescue however, at this delightful new Swiss managed marina. A bonus to all this was coming across Peter and Molly King-Smith on their Oyster 62, Dorado whom we accompanied across the Atlantic in c2002.
Our next passage was intended to Chatham Bay, Union Island however, the onset of a cold front thwarted these plans and forced us to bear off for Tyrell Bay, Canuan.
We were on a tight schedule for Antigua, so next morning we pressed on in a twenty knots reach for Bequia and Mustique. For us, Mustique represents the best of the Caribbean. Of course, it is a manicured estate which doesn’t reflect the real Caribbean but its fine beaches, coffee shop, patisserie, restaurants and beautiful safe walking trails works for us.
Departing Antigua
After three days indulgence we sailed back to Bequia then onwards to the Pitons in St Lucia. This is a dramatic well documented anchorage carved out of an ancient volcanic eruption which offers good moorings and a fine hotel facility with first class scuba diving. After a blustery, rough passage from St Vincent though, we found all the moorings taken and disappointedly carried on to Rodney Bay.
Ans Mitan in Martinique was the next port of call where we planned to change our gaz bottles. However, after an exciting 20 knot reach under blue skies and an azure sea, we found that a seasonal hurricane had swept away the wharf with its immigration and bunkering facilities so once again, we unexpectedly extended our passage, this time to St Pierre.
As has invariably been our experience, the following day’s sail to Dominica was rough.
A good three metre sea whipped up by a steady 25 knots produced lively conditions and a record passage time. Unusually, we were able to carry the wind all the way up the lee of Dominica to Prince Rupert Bay. The next day was equally strong which would have made the Ile de Saint anchorage uncomfortable so we carried on for Deshaises, Guadaloupe. Once again we were able to sail up the lee of the island. On arrival, we found that their landing stage had also been carried away by a storm. Not that this troubled us as we could only anchor overnight in order to make our timing in Antigua.
Whenever we’ve sailed to Falmouth Harbour we have been hard on the wind coping with an irritating north easterly swell and current. No doubt it’s the time of year but with a couple of reefs tucked in and the lee rail awash this passage was to prove no exception. Antigua has good facilities for the Caribbean and because we needed to leave the boat to attend to personal affairs, we took this opportunity to have her thoroughly overhauled in preparation for our Atlantic crossing.
When Jan and I 'transatlantic' we always ship a hand to help with the watch system. This gives us the luxury of three hours on and six off whilst also rotating the watches around the clock On this occasion though, we were to be spoilt with a second hand when our friend David asked if he could join George for the experience. As a result, we boys took the four hour watches during the day with Jan taking responsibility for the meals.
During the night watches we worked a rolling two hour on system which gave some just one watch whilst others stood two. Once again it rotated forward to pan out equitably to all. We slipped our lines in a fairly deserted Falmouth Harbour on the 21st May. For the first three days we made excellent north-easting in a south easterly moderate wind. However this came to an end when a succession of depressions overhauled us out of Cuba which went on to upset the whole Atlantic weather pattern.
Atlantic Squall
For twenty four hours we were hit with vicious line squalls and disturbing 360 degrees sheet and fork lighting. One particularly ugly water spout lifted the surrounding sea to several hundred feet before collapsing. Apart from this though, quite converse conditions summed up our passage to the Azores. We suffered many windless days which necessitated two hundred hours motoring. Many smaller yachts were stranded in mid ocean for a month and running short of food and water. As it was, a passage that had taken thirteen days totally under sail in c2004 took us nineteen days with a logged distance of 2641 miles.
During the sail we came across dolphins and whales, shearwaters and frigate birds.
We also collected a very nice fender and recovered my treasured Tot Club sun hat that had blown overboard. This aside though, we came across an amazing volume of trash floating around in the Atlantic. The island of Faial greeted us as before, shrouded in mist and Pico was nowhere to be seen. However, it was good to be back in the Café Sport and enjoy Jose’s hospitality once more. The last time we were there his father, Peter who was a legend in his own time, was to be seen daily in the cafe.
Adnamurchan Point - furthermost westerly point of mainland Great Britain.
David flew back to England leaving Jan, George and myself to cover the next 1350 to Dublin. Although not blessed with consistently steady winds, the passage proved far less frustrating, involving only the occasional motoring. The most memorable event was the plethora of whales. One humpback swam straight across our bow. I was convinced we were going to collide with the giant which we could only have missed by 15 metres. Precious little when viewed from the cockpit and sailing at 8 knots.
Some 250 miles off Finisterre we were checked out by a Royal Navy surveillance jet followed later by a helicopter from HMS Iron Duke, practicing dummy raids on us. I’ve never experienced anything like it. We also came across a poor gannet in terrible distress with fishing netting around its neck but regrettably there was nothing we could do for it.
HMS Iron Duke & Helicopter
Dublin was bathed in sunshine and everybody was pleased to relate the marvellous summer they were having. We bid farewell to George and also took the opportunity to fly back to the Isle of Man to check out our house. On our return the good weather had gone to be replaced by a continuous succession of depressions for the rest of the Summer. We had a great reach to Strangford Lough and then next day to Bangor Marina to see out a gale. On venturing up the North Channel to the Isle of Gigha the wind boxed the compass and adorned us with an array of rainbows. Our plans took in Croabh Haven and Oban. What a treat it was to be back in Scotland. We had forgotten how magnificent it is during our seven years absence overseas.
After visiting our sailmaker, Owen Sails we made for Tobermory and then Knoydart, Loch Nevis to dine at the fabled Old Forge. There could be no let up to the task on hand however, so we continued with a beat up the Sound of Sleat through Loch Alsh and round to Plockton, Loch Carron arguably the prettiest village on the west coast despite being over run with ‘Hampstead highlanders’.
Jan insisted on time out, so the day was spent at the laundrette. All through our years in the Caribbean we lifted the dinghy at night. However, it wasn’t until we were back in Scotland did we awake to find our dinghy missing. Only those who have found themselves in this position know what a devastating experience this is. After the initial shock had subsided we hailed a lift ashore to find the dinghy tied up to the pontoon. Never mind, borrowing beats stealing.
Next day, we sailed up the Inner Sound only to be herded off by the MOD’s range vessel. Submarines popped up all over the place. Our destination was to an old watering hole at Badachro. However, by the time we reached Loch Gairloch it was cold, wet and windy and we couldn’t raise the enthusiasm to launch our dinghy.
The forecast was grim but as we were in protected waters we set off next day in a gale to round Rudh Rhea to pass the Summer Isles and on to Loch Inver. Since last being in Scotland there has been considerable improvement in the yachting facilities. Typically, both Loch Inver and our next port of call, Kinlochbervie provided modest new marina berths and a hearty welcome. We spent a day in each and another in Loch Eribol on the north coast before making our way to Kirkwall, Orkney via the Eynhallow Sound.
The Orkney Islands are one of the most rewarding places to visit in the British Isles and just steeped in history with archaeology that makes the Egyptian Pyramids and Chinese Wall seem like 20th century developments! However, whilst doing the rounds we were thrilled to come across our previous boat ‘Surf Song’ an HR39 in fine fettle moored in Stromness marina.
Lerwick, Shetland Isles
With careful weather planning we had been able to keep on top of our mission to deliver the boat back to Sweden. In the more exposed waters to the north of Britain it became more important to take into consideration the sea state as well as the wind particularly in an area that has some of the most fearsome tides in the world. We slipped our lines in Kirkwall marina at the crack of dawn for the Shetland Islands. Lerwick the capital, which lies 90 miles to the north is on the same latitude as the south coasts of Alaska and Greenland. Previously we had planned to stop en route at Fair Isle but the weather forecast dictated otherwise. Despite our close attention to tidal runs however, we were still given a fair jockeying round the Sumburgh Race.
Lerwick harbour typifies a place which derives greater revenue from another source. Bergen, Norway also falls into this category. All around the West Coast and Orkney we had been impressed with the improved yachting facilities but in Lerwick, the only marina is reserved for residents and the visitors have to make do with tying to the wall of an inadequate harbour or to a floating pontoon that’s only available when the cruise ships aren’t disembarking passengers.
We took time out to visit old Rassonian friends who have recently inherited 1300 acres. It would have been fun to have stayed in their mansion house but we couldn’t leave the boat on such a vulnerable berth. Gales came and passed until we decided to leave on the back of a depression for Grimstad in southern Norway. We had intended to cruise the west coast but this would have put us at a disadvantage and unnecessarily increased stress levels in such unsettled weather.
Our 400 miles passage took two and half days. It started out very rough on a fine reach but the wind gradually veered to give clear nights and sunny days. As we were now ahead of schedule we took the time in Grimstad to wash all our sails and prepare for laying up. The marina was half empty and we had the run of the place with its excellent laundry facilities.
The final passage of our 5000 miles season was across the Skagerrak to Henan in west Sweden, home to Najad’s marina and boat building facilities. On passage, we took the opportunity to spend a night in Gullhomen which is perhaps the prettiest and most traditional old fishing harbour on the whole coast.
Safely back at Najad!
Now the re-fit is underway and that’s that for another year.